There are two sections in these boxes. One is fed from the battery and is always hot. The other is fed from the ignition and is hot only when the key is on. Such things as headlights, clock, tail lights are available all the time -- they are fed from the battery section. Things such as the heater, radio, wipers and rear defog are "switched accessories" powered only when the key is on and come off of the accessory section.

There are 6 fuse slots available. 3 are always hot and 3 are switched but if you feed the 3 that are always hot from the switched feed terminal bar, all 6 fuse slots are switched power. You can decide which accessories you want to fill the fuse slots. I chose the turn signal, the heater blower motor, the wipers, the fuel gauge, the temperature gauge and the rear defogger.

The temperature gauge and the fuel gauge both have a fence of terminals you can use to power accessories. I didn't use the fuel gauge fence. I used the temperature gauge fence to power the starter button switch. I fed the power antenna from the wiper circuit breaker. Here are pictures of gauges from another car.

Below is the fuse box wired for test. It might look like a quagmire, but it really isn't. After testing, I will bundle the wires and tuck the box under the dash. I'll leave enough wire length so the box can be pulled out for inspection in case of a blown fuse. We have a video here.

Wiring completed, we fired it up for the first time in months. We not only get to check the wiring, but also the new oil pump, heater core and other things. The temperature and fuel gauges responded. I was delighted to see the generator charging. We had great oil pressure but we found a leak on the intake manifold at the exhaust cross over passage. This will take some time to correct. We also noticed that the wrong generator bracket has been installed. This one sits so high it barely clears the hood. I will get a correct bracket. Here is the service manual pages on belt tension for the accessories.

Let's get the interior reassembled. It is easier to install (and remove) the heater control if the radio is not there. I found a correct Bowden cable to replace the missing one and now have the heater valve working. The radio is back in and the dial lights come on with the panel lights. With the gas pedal and brake pedals installed we find the gas pedal linkage is out of adjustment -- when floored neither secondary comes on. We corrected. The carpet was reinstalled and fits pretty good. The speedometer went in. Getting those lamps to seat in the speedometer is tough. I had to do it with the speedometer off of the dash so I could get enough leverage.

We finished up the dash with the installation of a glove box and glove box door. The box that came with the car was held together with duct tape. I found an original 57 in good shape and installed it. The original door had holes drilled in it by a previous owner to hold extra ornaments. Murray had an original door in the right color so we swapped that one.

I bought new dome light lenses. You can get them on Ebay from vendors such as Van's or Firestone Collectibles. They all sell the same thing. They are about $45/each and look nice but you won't be able to install them. On one end of the lens you have a tab to fit the light housing. On the other end you have a pin. The pin is not long enough. In my first attempt to install, I used RTV on the pin and tired to glue the lens in the housing. It doesn't work. My second idea was better: cut the sides of the lens down so the pin sits higher. You can't see the sides after installation and the pin is now long enough to grab the housing. Video here.

Front Seat Extension page

Belt Tension page

To page 10

Back