The plan is to install the new Legendary interior. This includes a new carpet so we will start there.

The ash tray in the center console is missing the hold down brackets. I made several sets of these some years ago just for cases like this.

The passenger seat is not power. It is easy to remove. I took off the upper seat back to lighten the load. The seat did not have the "S" spring in the pocket. I have spares and will install on reassembly.

The driver seat is power. I was not able to move the racks full forward to expose the mounting screws. I removed the cushion and tracks as a unit. After considerable soaking with lubricant, the inboard sliding rail freed up and the screws were removed.





Interesting, the driver upper seat back pivot pins have Philips screws rather than the press on retaining hat. The passenger side has the hat style.




I removed the seat belt anchors. The inboard two unscrewed easily. The driver outboard was tough. The passenger outboard was almost fatal but eventually came off.

Note how well the original carpet fits the rear foot well and the drive shaft tunnel.



To remove the center console, there are two bolts at the rear and a nose nut under the radio. You have to raise the rear to release the front from that nose bolt. On this car the rear braces are cocked and have only 1 bolt in the 2 holes and sit on pieces of wood. I have seen this on FGH consoles.




I removed the lower cushion of the back seat. The passenger side did not want to release. I had to take the lower bolts out of the upper cushion, raise it so the lower could slide back, then it released. Floors are super solid. Removed rear upper cushion, washed both with Lexol cleaner then conditioner and stored. These seats are nice enough they will be used on another car some day.

The rear carpet is easy to remove since there is nothing like a gas pedal or dimmer switch to deal with. This carpet is in fairly good shape and the jute underneath is in good shape too. It was good to see that the floors are solid.

Getting into the front carpet, I find the gas pedal pivot has a bolt through it. When it comes time to install the front carpet, it will be easier if the gas pedal pivot has been removed -- put the gas pedal pivot in after the carpet is down.

The driver side carpet is tricky in the area of the dimmer switch and parking brake cable. Adhesive helps to get a good fit there. By the gas pedal pivot, you have the center console to help anchor the carpet and hold down wrinkles. On the passenger side, the problem area is the right front junction of the floor to the firewall. Jute is required to form out the divot that wants to form here. It would have been better if the new carpet had no jute, but we made it work.
After years of cutting carpet and jute with scissors, I bought a set of heavy duty shears. I wish I had done this years ago. These shears make the job so much easier and the results are so much better.

To install the heel plates, I went under the car and found the original screw holes. I used an awl from below to pierce the carpet and then could locate the hole from above. Once you have one screw in, you can find the other 3. The left side plate is difficult; the outboard screw holes are blocked by the stub frame. You have to find either one of the other two. Alternately, you could locate the left plate to the right so it looks correct and drill new holes.
The heel plates do a great job of anchoring the carpet.

The console ash tray was broken. This is common on 1960-64 consoles. The top separates from the base. At the factory, the pieces are held together by several crimps which will break if you aren't careful. JB Weld is a good solution to the problem.