Golden Lion Grrrages

Page 10

Installed new quarter window gaskets. The old one just pull out, new ones push in the groove. They fit tight, no adhesive needed. New ones are flocked, look good. The passenger side seals great, the driver needed a little adjustment. I should probably plan that glass will need adjustment after new seals -- new seals being thicker will press the glass out at the top.

I decided to remove the dual carb intake and replace it with a single 4bbl from a 300K. The previous owner (deceased) installed this dual but didn't finish. It has no vacuum port for the heater door motors (or power brake booster should we decide to add it), no choke, and the gas pedal linkage could not be adjusted to give full travel. The single 4bbl intake could solve those issues. Hollander's says we have interchange 1959-1964 413 V8 all models, which makes finding the intake easy.

To remove the duals we had to remove the AC compressor. Since the system has had no charge in years, we could break connections -- there was no Freon to lose. This let us hoist the compressor right off the engine. With the compressor out of the way, the job is much easier. With the valley open you could see new head gaskets, very little oil deposits and signs of recent work. It all looks good. A new intake manifold gasket was installed with RTV at the corners and then the single 4 bbl manifold.

All these RB engines with AC have the problem of the compressor blocking access to the cooling system thermostat. With the AC compressor removed, now is the time to check the thermostat. It was a 180 and I swapped in another 180 with drill holes for fluid bleed. New gasket, RTV both sides, assembled, no leaks. Reinstalled the AC compressor (amazed the brackets all lined up), adjusted the belt tension (do the power steering before the compressor belts because those AC belts block access to the psteering bracket bolt).
The valve covers had been chrome Edelbrock without provision for PCV. To remove the valve cover on the passenger side the heater core box has to come off. The heads and rockers are nice and clean. I installed spare 64 valve covers and now have PCV.



Don Verity pointed out that I was missing the rubber bumpers for the gas filler door. I had never seen one and didn't see a listing in the Goer's catalog. I found a #19 Goer's door stop bumper in spare parts and modified so it works as the gas door bumper.

With the new single 4bbl AFB, the throttle linkage isn't right -- the gas pedal doesn't have full travel. I found the correct link in spares and adjusted the linkage until I got a good gas pedal with both idle and WOT. I needed a throttle return spring, made several from universals. None of them worked and ended up using an original. The same spring was used on the V8s across the model line 60-64. Time to adjust the transmission kick down and I didn't find what I wanted. Turns out you don't want the diagram in the transmission section, page 21-32. You want the diagram in the fuel section page 14-20 for the proper procedure. I set the transmission link via the manual. For a 3/16" dia rod, use a chain saw file. It fits fine.

I had spark plug wire insulators in stock from R/T Specialties, part number 2098980 which fit the spark wire holders mounted in the valve covers. Turns out the wires the previous owner used are smaller diameter and had to be taped so the insulators would bite but OK for now.

I decided to change out the throttle pivot bushing. When you depress the throttle, the pivot shaft moves toward the open end of the bushing and that is where you see the most wear. You can see it in these pictures. I installed one of the new 3D printed bushings I got from Charlie Valentine (the black piece). It is a bit difficult to access the pivot bracket; you pretty much have to be half body over the fender into the engine bay.

Back again to the slight leak from the transmission. Removed the pan and the reusable gasket. D Verity mentioned possibility the trans pan bolts are too long. I measured and they all the same length. I found the blind holes in the casing, measured the depth and the bolts are short enough so they won't bottom out. I decided to install a new cork rubber gasket, torque, remove and look for impressions -- if there were areas where I didn't have impressions, I didn't have compression. I torqued to the book spec of 150 in lb, removed and could not see any impressions anywhere; the idea didn't work. Cleaned things up, used a little RTV on the outer half of the gasket top and bottom side, installed on pan. RTV does a great job of holding the gasket on pan for location and bolt holes. Installed, torqued to 150 and let it sit overnight. The next day I added the transmission fluid and the day after checked for leaks.

Just for kicks, I checked to see if the console tach worked. I put a drill on the distributor end and spon the cable. Nothing. Ran the drill the other way. Nothing. Disconnected the cable from the tach and out came a broken segment of cable. New tach cables are available.