The new master cylinder went in without any effort. Access to the rear brake hose was complicated by the muffler hangers. Eventually I removed the bracket holding the brake hose and that made things easier. Brake cylinder replacement was going well until the passenger side rear. The brake line didn't want to release from the fitting. Wire brushing, Kroil, fussing and waiting didn't work. Although the fitting came free, the line showed signs of twisting as shown in the picture. I wasn't about to take a chance with that line. Fortunately, I found that line is the same back to at least 1960 and I had a new spare. It fit well. We also applied another dose of the Quick-Glo to the rear bumper and that brought the finish where I want it. New front wheel seals were found in stock and I think the wheel bearings should be replaced. I found new bearings in stock but couldn't bring myself to use them -- made in China. New bearings from Rock Auto were here two days later.

New parking brake cables were installed along with new front wheel bearings (Timken USA) and seals. Then we turned our attention to the gas tank. Removal was quick and easy although there was a lot of dirt between the gas tank and the trunk. The sender was removed and inspected. It looked like it was new although it is the original. The inside of the gas tank was perfect too. You can watch the adventure here. The tank went back in with only a bit of a wrestle most likely because I had forgotten the trick -- leave the filler pipe loose in the bumper and connect to the tank after the tank is on the straps. I noticed a piece of newspaper stuffed in a hole on the rear bumper brace. Although dirty, it still read Scottsbluff Star Herald, Wednesday, July 28, 1971.

The steering had a groan which went away as you drove it. We traced it to the idler arm bushing. A new idler arm assembly from Rock Auto was installed and solved the problem. While the front end was up in the air we greased all the Zerks, installed tires, connected the fuel system with new rubber lines and took it off the Quick Jacks. Turning attention to the driver's door, we have the sticky window and the rear view mirror to fix. You can watch the work here.
The inside of the driver door was remarkably rust free although there was significant Nebraska top soil in the base. The crank window freed up nicely with the addition of spray lube. Other 1965-66 Chryslers were reviewed to determine placement of the driver side remote control mirror. Before we drill holes, more study is required.

I gave the wheelcovers a quick wash and polish so I could put them out of the way. I'm surprised how well the centers have held up after all these years. Normally they check and craze.

I removed the old aftermarket mirror and decided I'd try my hand at bringing some life into the old faded paint before installing a new mirror. Since the area on top of the door isn't very big and doesn't lend itself to a buffer, I went after it by hand. I used Meguir's #10 compound and it quickly loaded the rag with dirt and old paint. I kept changing to fresh rags until the dirt load quit and finished with Meguir's #1 hand polish. The paint is a lot better.

Before

After

I laid out painter's tape and measured twice before making template holes. The new mirror installed easily and looks great.

I installed the vapor barrier and the door panel. I took a minute to paint the black center areas on the window cranks and the door handles. It doesn't take long and improves the looks. You can buy new inner door levers, part number ACD01-81280 from various people on Ebay.


Moving on to the passenger door, once again the original panel is in great shape. The vapor barrier was there along with its share of Nebraska topsoil. The inside of the door is perfect. I removed the aftermarket mirror and started in on freshening the paint. Here is a video of that work.

	Buffing continues section by section. I am using an old Sears 10" orbital and Meguir's compounds finished with a quality carnuba wax-cleaner. In between compounds, I sponge off the old compound. I can tell by the amount of old paint in the rinse how well the polishing is going. At one point I noted the amount of old paint was decreasing -- the buff matt had worn out. A new matt and we were back in business.

November 2022: The paint buffing is done so the car is off to storage for the winter.