For no particular reason we decided to start with fixing the power top motor. You might think you can access the top motor from the trunk, and you can, but only to add fluid. Removal requires you get to the other side and that means the back board has to come out. That means the rear console has to come out, which means the rear seats have to come out. You might as well take out the front seats. It is easy enough and gives you the access you need. We have a video on console removal.
Removal of the rear seat cushions was difficult; the lower cushions wouldn't release. The trick is to raise the rear seat upper cushions -- remove entirely if you can. Then the lower cushions will slide back far enough to release from the hooks. With the FGH, the rear upper cushions are small. They should be held with 2 screws at their lower retainers which you can get at with a long Phillips. These seats didn't have the screws -- if people have been in here before they often don't reinstall the screws.
Those lower cushion hooks -- take a look at this picture of the floor. You will see that something has been cut off. That is the remains of the standard rear seat hook which is welded on all floor pans expecting that a bench seat. It is in the wrong location for the F G or H so it gets cut off and two other hooks installed for each bottom.

I was surprised to find the seats in good shape. The covers are the club's repop items, likely more than 20 years old now. Lexol does a great job cleaning and conditioning. The rear seats won't need any more attention while the front seats need some attention to their seat back panels and new foam for the seat bottom.

The brake, gas, and parking brake pedals show the wear you would expect from a quarter million miles. They can be remolded by Quirey if I can't find better ones.

Gil had hard-to-find NOS parking light housings and tail light bezels.

The center consoles are going to take some work. Both need the correct gold carpet for the sides. I bought some of the carpet the club had made special order back in 1997 and have enough left (I think). The top trim runners are held on by 7/16" Pal nuts on the under side. The bolts are carriage bolts and are retained in channels in the trim runners. Once the nuts are loose enough, the bolts will come off of the channels and start to spin with the nuts. Use a screw driver under the nut as you turn to hole the bolt head in the channel.

The top decorative ribbed piece has holes drilled around the ash tray area. Years ago Gary Goers had new ones but that stock is long gone. I have a spare piece that will make do.
The front and rear ash trays need freshening. I have spares.

The console cover hinge screws (10-32x1.5 Philips pan head) are damaged but replacements are available. Make reassembly easier by dressing retaining plate threads now.

Tested the master power window switch with the VOM. All positions good. This is a replacement switch because it says BOTTOM on one side. Original switches don't. Polished and the finish came up nicely.

Removed seat tracks from front seats. Front bolts are 1/2 while rear bolts are 9/16. The seat tracks need new lower seat bolts.

I looked at tach cable and found there is no cable in it. New ones are available (Murray) if I don't have a spare. I found an old tach cable and tested the tach with a drill. At first there was a howling noise. A few drops of speedometer cable lubricant to the wick and the howl went away. The tach tested good and will be reused.

I wanted to check the life left in the parking brake shoes. With the drive shaft already out, the center nut (1-1/8) and an impact gun makes short work. I was delighted to find the park brake shoes are fine with very little wear and the adjuster is free.

I had a note that the rubber fuel line sections had been replaced at the tank to the fuel line and from the fuel line to the fuel pump. They missed the connection at the stub frame so I replaced that piece and discovered the main line has a rubber patch. New fuel lines are available from InLine Tube or Mancini so I will get a replacement.

While I was in that area I noticed a gruesome core plug on the passenger side of the engine block. I drained coolant from radiator and was able to remove the 9/16" block drain plug to minimize coolant mess. The core plug was so weak it started to leak just by scraping with screwdriver. With a little wrestle the core plug was removed. Wet and tired, the install will wait for another day.

I started in on the back panel disassembly. It has a rear speaker from a prev owner. He cut an oval into the plywood, added a screen so he could attach the 300 bezel, laid over the black carpet. I removed upper trim and sanded with 000 steel wool to remove over spray black paint and tarnish. Cleaned the rear panel medallion bezel. It will need a new medallion.

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